Clay Soil and Pine Mulch

Plants and soil types are like the 3 bears and bed types in the "Goldilocks" story. There is no one prefect soil that every plants likes.

Here in the chilly zone 4a region of Wisconsin we have a difficult soil for most traditional plants. It is clay, compact, wet, and highly alkaline. On the plus side clay has tons of nutrients and holds water well. What can you do to improve your garden to be more acceptable to other non clay/alkaline loving plants?

Added lots pine mulch!

Pine mulch is acidic (epically the pine needles). Normally most advice is to neutralize this acidity by adding a alkaline product to the mulch (common one is lime stone powder). But why add alkaline if acidity is what you really want. The acidity in the mulch will eventually balance out the soil, creating soil layers with a range of acidic to alkaline the deeper the soil level gets. This means each plant will send roots the soil level of acidic/alkaline it likes and then start growing! Mulch is great at keeping just the right water level so your plants don't dry out or don't water rot. While mulch also helps prevents weeds, since the mulch is acidic that helps stop those pesky weeds. Eventually the much will break down and help with the compaction of the soil. (Warning: mulch in the first year will absorb nitrogen, but will release it as it breaks down in the 2nd year)



Resources:
http://www.we-energies.com/forestry/woodchips.htm

https://uwlab.soils.wisc.edu/pubs/lowering_ph.pdf

http://wood.uwex.edu/2010/11/18/pine-needles-cause/

Starting Seeds: Potting Up

Knowing your roots...

It has been about 3 weeks from starting my seeds and they are growing so fast. Even with the warm weather, it is too early in the season of Wisconsin to transplant in the soil with the risk of frost. So what do you do when your baby plants have out grown there seed trays, but the weather is too risky? Pot Up

Why Pot Up?  
The main purpose of to prevent stunted root growth. With out room for the roots to grow they will just circle around in the container and stunt the plants growth when you transplant them into the ground.  This also give the plant more dirt to absorb nutrient. As well as allow you offset any leggy/spindling seeds that have too long of a stem by to set the plant deep into the pot and filling up soil around the stem.

When to Pot Up?
Usually the best time is after you see true leaves and they are about 3-4 inches tall. Those first 2 leaves are just baby seed leaves called 'cotyledon leaves'. It is also a good time when you see roots grow out of the bottom of the tray or pot For most plants it is about 3 weeks. Peppers are known to take longer.


How to Pot Up?
Water the plants the day before potting up, this will help loosen the soil. Choose a pot or container that has proper drainage and is 2 inches or bigger. Get some fresh garden potting soil. The day of potting up, i like to loosen the sides of soil in the seed tray with a butter knife. Put a small layer of soil in the pot/container you will be using. When removing try not to touch or damage the stem or the true leaves, try to pull using the cotyledon leaves and turning the seed tray upside down.  Put the plant in the pot and fill with soil. 


Remember:
You still need to water and provide additional light for your plants. You might even want to start 'hardening off' you plants by setting them out side in the day. They are still baby plants, so don't leave them out if it gets bellow 65F at night or if it is raining (risk of over watering you plants).


References:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/seed/msg031430028669.html
http://www.growit.umd.edu/SeedStarting/Potting%20up.cfm
http://gardening.about.com/od/gardenprimer/ss/SeedStarting_9.htm
http://houseplants.about.com/od/pottingandrepotting/a/Repotting.htm
http://www.correntewire.com/seed_starting_pt_4_potting_up

Starting Seeds: Cubes

It's Soil, in 3D...

In one of my previous blogs is mentioned the soil cube. Normally don't buy 'new innovate garden tools' as they are more marketing then quality. After some research, I bought one. I still think it is a great item for starting seeds and will still use it, but maybe not a convenient as soil pellets. Here is what I learned.

The Marketing:

• Save Money! The soil cube system is less expensive.  It serves as both a container and the soil for starting and growing seedlings, eliminating the need for plastic pots and trays for transplanted seedlings
• Seedlings grown in soil cubes form stronger root systems than those grown in containers due to increased oxygen to the roots and the soil cube's natural tendency to"air-prune" roots. This creates a substantial advantage when seedlings are transplanted into the field, because plants establish themselves more quickly and, because of lessened root disruption, they are less prone to transplant shock.

Actual Pros:

• Plants don't have transplant shock
• Plants (after being transplanted) grow faster, have less issue
• No root issues, like root balling.
• less seed starting issues when they sprout
• very cheep to do a lot of seed starting

Actual Cons:

• little more work get soil ready to plant seeds
• little more messy to make cubes
• harder to keep moist (might do better with self water system...)
• if you water too much the cube become a puddle of mud

Summary:
Will I use this again? Yes.
It might be a little more dirtier and little more hime to make the cubes. The plants do so much better in the long term. Tomato plants last year did better then direct sow or seed tray methods. My only real worry is watering the cubes. Too little water and the seeds won't grow. Too much water and the cube falls apart. Then again, it might be good for beginner gardeners to teach how much water seeds need.

Future improvements: self watering would be great.



soil cube

Episode 600 interview with soil cube creator clayton jacobs